Začalo to v Kamerunu: sloni, hory, Pygmejové

artur_kolo

Kamerun považuji za svůj druhý domov. V jedné z nejrozmanitějších afrických zemí jen kousek severně od rovníku jsem doposud strávil více než půl roku a projel celou zemi křížem krážem. I proto se měl Kamerun stát startovní čárou mé celoroční expedice napříč Střední Afrikou. Svůj bicykl jsem pro začátek nechal v bezpečí přepravní bedny u svého kamaráda v hlavním městě Yaoundé a se skupinou mladých česko-slovenských dobrovolníků jsme se místními dopravními prostředky vydali až na samotný sever země. Před samotnou cyklistickou cestou jsem chtěl navštívit své kamerunské blízké a podniknout několik “služebních cest“ již v rámci projektu save-elephants.

Národní park Waza

První důležitou zastávkou byl národní park Waza. Do širých travnatých prostor tohoto překrásného parku jsem tentokrát vstupoval již počtvrté a měl jsem jediný cíl: konečně pozorovat savanové slony v jejich přirozeném prostředí. Až dosud jsem se na svých cestách vždy setkával se slony pralesními, s většími savanovými příbuznými jsem zatím neměl tu čest. A moje první seznámení s vládci savany bylo krásnější a velkolepější, než jsem si mohl přát. Z korby pronajatého náklaďáčku z blízké vesnice byl i přes tři metry vysokou trávu dobrý rozhled do krajiny. Období dešťů ještě úplně neskončilo a vysoká tráva značně ztěžovala pozorování zvířat. Tráva ale nebyla natolik vysoká, aby ukryla stádo asi šedesáti slonů! Sloni táhli stromovou savanou k dalekému napajedlu a po cestě škubali choboty větve akácií a  tu a tam odpočívali. Občas vykoukla z hradby těl dospělých slonic i malá slůňata a jeden mladý samec se odvážil přiblížit se plechovému vetřelci poměrně blízko. Poté se sloni dali opět do pohybu. Hluboké mručení, šelest suché trávy, zvířený prach, pocit klidu a bezpečí…

… zdánlivého bezpečí: před rokem bylo v nedalekém kamerunském parku Bouba Njida zastřeleno profesionálními pytláky více než 200 slonů! Během několika málo týdnů, než se Kamerun stačil odhodlat k akci a poslat do parku armádu, padla pod palbou samopalů asi třetina všech slonů v oblasti! To už se nesmí opakovat.







Kedjom-Keku

Z Kamerunského severu pokračovala cesta zpět na jih a na západ. Po několika dnech jsme dorazili do anglofonní části Kamerunu do města Bamenda a do horské oblasti Kedjom-Keku. Právě tady působí stejnojmenné občanské sdružení z ČR. S kamarády dobrovolníky, kteří začali v nově dostavěné škole učit děti a podílet se na ochraně horského mlžného lesa jsem strávil v horách ještě několik dní. „Naše“ škola, kterou se podařilo malé skupině českých nadšenců letos postavit, leží ve výšce 2000 m v mozaikovité krajině pastvin, původního pralesa, políček a křovin. Oblastí se potulují dlouhorohé krávy, poslední skupinka divokých šimpanzů, temperamentní koně a asi 30 druhů endemických druhů ptáků. Malý ráj na zemi… jen kdyby toho pralesa nebylo rok od roku méně. Kedjom-Keku se to pokusí změnit!

Národní pakr Korup a Desire

Další, dlouho plánovaná schůzka, mě po dvou letech opět zavedla ke svému starému známému Desire. A naše setkání se nakonec ukázalo být důležitější, než jsem vůbec předem tušil. Kafack Dontego Louis Desire je muž středního věku, kterého jsem potkal během své první africké cesty na samém jihovýchodě Kamerunu. Již téměř dvě desítky let pracuje jako ochránce přírody, v současnosti pro WWF a je to jeden z největších expertů na pralesní slony v celém regionu. S Desire jsem se setkal v národním parku Korup u nigerijských hranic. Na tři dny jsem se připojil k jeho týmu během sčítání zvěře na transektech v překrásném, ale bohužel pytláky značně zdecimovaném pralesním parku. Vstřebával jsem všechny cenné informace o slonech, které mi Desire dával a hltal jsem jeho historky ze života v džungli. Poté přišlo něco, co jsem nečekal. Desire začal vyprávět, jak se k ochraně přírody dostal. Jako pytlák! „Masový zabiják slonů“, jak se sám nazval. Dlouhá léta lovil slony napříč jižním Kamerunem a kly dodával překupníkovi z Libanonu v přístavu Douala. Dál se o jejich osud nestaral. Už tehdy, na počátku devadesátých let, měla slonovina vysokou cenu a vyplatilo se riskovat. Od té doby se cena několikanásobně zvedla a v Kamerunu se dnes za kilo platí 150 000 Středoafrických Franků – asi 6000 Kč. Zajímalo mně, jak je možné, že za ty roky Desireho nikdy nechytili? … Úplatky … Desire věděl, kde jsou kontroly a byl na ně připravený. Takový finanční „laissez-passer“ na celou zásilku slonoviny a dalších ulovených zvířat byl tehdy až směšně nízký. Desire vzpomínal, že nejvyšší „propustku“ , jakou kdy strážcům nebo policii platil, bylo 50 000 Středoafrických Franků, tedy asi 2000 Kč a nikdo se ani nepodíval, co a kolik toho převáží. Od pytláctví Desireho odvedl až osvětový ochranářský program v těch nejzapadlejších kamerunských vískách. Jen díky této šťastné náhodě se z největšího lovce slonů v zemi stal jejich zavilý ochránce. Než jsme se rozloučili, poskytl mi Desire na krásném visutém mostě přes divokou řeku unikátní rozhovor pro můj film. Před kamerou jsme si povídali o jeho osobních pytláckých i ochranářských zkušenostech. Budou se hodit! Díky Desire…


Záchrana luskouna

Desire mi také poradil, kde najít v největším kamerunském městě, v přístavu Douala trh s bushmeatem – masem z pralesa. Rozhodl jsem se prozkoumat, jaká zvířata tržnice nabízí. Ve čtvrti New Bell jsem zamířil na Marché des Chevres (Kozí trh), v jehož okolí jsem nalezl velké množství stánků se zvěřinou. Kromě obligátních, čerstvých nebo uzených dikobrazů, krys a opic jsem narazil také na mrtvé krokodýly, asi čtyřmetrovou krajtu, kterou jeden chlápek zrovna obratně stahoval z kůže a také na všemožné ptactvo. V koších z lián se tísnilo „zboží“, které déle vydrží čerstvé naživu – živé sladkovodní želvy (až 50 cm), varani se svázanýma nohama (až 120 cm) a luskouni. Luskounů malého stromového druhu (Phataginus tricuspis) bylo v koších spousta, stočených bázlivě do klubíčka. Rozhodl jsem se, že alespoň jednoho zachráním! Usmlouval jsem cenu, vybral šťastlivce, který vypadal zdravě a uložil jej opatrně (sekal drápy a čůral okolo: ) do pytle. Jakmile jsem se vymotal ze zmatku tržnice, dal jsem drobečkovi napít. Zjevně žíznivý luskoun vylízal svým neuvěřitelně dlouhým jazykem dvě misky s vodou. Následovala tříhodinová projížďka autobusem na jih do přímořského města Kribi, kam jsem měl namířeno a kde jsem se rozhodl luskouna vypustit do přírody. Důvěrně známé Kribi mě přivítalo již potmě a po rychlém ubytování v „kumbálu“ jednoho hostince (už neměli pokoj a jinam se mi nechtělo) jsem si najal motorku a vyrazil s luskounem několik kilometrů za město. Motorkář se bez valného předního světlometu vyhýbal hlubokým dírám na lesní cestě a značně se podivoval mému nesmyslnému přání zajet s „masem“, s „jídlem“, daleko za město a pustit ho zpět do lesa. „Ach, vy bílí“… bručel si nechápavě pod vousy. Jakmile bylo poslední lidské stavení dost daleko, zastavili jsme a já odnesl luskouna, už slyšitelně nervózního, ještě hlouběji do lesa. Vypustil jsem ho na malý stromek, který luskoun sevřel svými drápy a obtočil šupinovitým ocasem. Chvíli se rozhodoval, kam poleze. Nakonec zvolil možnost dolů a sotva slezl až na zem, začal divoce hrabat v trouchnivém dřevě a hlíně. Okamžitě se okolo vyrojilo množství obrovských mravenců a luskoun byl po kdovíkolika dnech půstu ve svém živlu. Ani jsem netušil, že jsem ho vypustil přímo k prostřenému stolu! Luskoun funěl jako ježek a zahrabával se do mraveniště hlouběji a hlouběji, až v něm zmizel úplně a vyčníval jen ocas. V přírodě je o jednoho luskouna více!

Je mi jasné, že nakupování jedinců nějakého druhu na trhu a jejich pouštění do přírody nevyřeší středo- a západoafrickou krizi s lovem divokých zvířat. Moje záchrana luskouna měl být spíše symbolický akt. Řekl jsem si totiž, že od každého zvířecího druhu, který jsem tady v Africe až dosud jedl (a luskouna jsem už dvakrát jedl a byl moc dobrý!), alespoň jednoho jedince před snězením zachráním. Luskoun byl tedy první a pominu-li všelijaký hmyz a jiné bezobratlé, kteří mi skončili na talíři, měl bych tak ještě zachránit dva druhy pralesních krys, dikobraza, veverku, zajíce, cibetku, kočku zlatou, 5 druhů antilop, prase štětkouna, kaloně, stromového damana, zoborožce, frankolína, hada, pulce, žáby, krokodýla, sluchozemskou želvu a varana.

Můžete si tedy udělat dobrou představu o mém jídelníčku – ale neděste se, varan či daman na talíři rozhodně není každodenní záležitostí! Většinu druhů zvířat jsem ochutnal zatím jen jednou při pobytu v některé z pygmejských vesnic, kdy mi je obyvatelé přímo sami nabídli. Naprostou většinu mé běžné diety v Africe tvoří banány, arašídy, maniok, kukuřice a malé smažené koblížky – beignets. Banány, arašídy, maniok, kukuřice, beignets. Banány, arašídy, maniok, kukuřice, beignets. Banány…


Návštěva u Pygmejů Bagyeli

Nevyhnutelnou zastávkou na samotném jihu Kamerunu byla třídenní návštěva u mého pygmejského známého Josepha Ngwa v jeho rodné vesnici. Osvíceného příslušníka kmene Bagyeli (též Gyele) jsem poznal před rokem a kromě jiného mne tehdy zaujal svým vypravováním o tradičním pygmejském lovu slonů pomocí oštěpů. Vydal jsem se proto za Josephem znovu pro bližší informace a rozhovor do mého filmu, jímž chci konfrontovat tradiční lov slonů pro obživu domorodců s masovým vybíjením celých sloních klanů prvotně kvůli slonovině. Joseph mne také lákal do své vesnice na dobrodružný noční lov největších žab světa. Nebylo proč váhat a tak jsem z Kribi zamířil přímo na východ směrem do městečka Akom 2. Tedy, nebylo to tak jednoduché… Nejprve jsem musel počkat, až se naplní minibus, aby se mohlo vyrazit. Čekání trvalo neuvěřitelných osm hodin s kontinuálním řidičovým ubezpečováním, že se vyjede „už každou chvíli“ a „ať nikam nechodím“. Ve čtyři odpoledne jsem se dočkal! Akom 2 je vzdálený 80 km lesní cestou a loni mi to na kole trvalo asi šest hodin. Letos autem to bylo sedm hodin! Přetížené stařičké Mitsubishi, neexistující dezén na pneumatikách, kluzké kopce po dešti, hluboké bahnité louže, několikeré tlačení a nesčíslné vysedání a zase nasedání. Pozdě v noci jsem konečně pro strastiplné cestě vysedl a v absolutní tmě vyhledal Josephův domek. Odtud se časně zrána vyrazilo pěšky deset kilometrů hluboko do pralesa do jeho původní vesnice, kde má stále matku a příbuzné. Během tří slunečných dní mi Joseph ukázal celičkou vesnici Pygmejů Bagyeli s několika rodinami černochů Bantu a navštívili jsme také zapadlou jednotřídku, kde se malí Pygmejové všeho věku od čtyř do třinácti let učí základním znalostem. Joseph mne provedl okolním pralesem a seznamoval mne s léčivými rostlinami i elektrickými sumečky, které umně lapal do ruky pod břehem a aniž by mě dopředu upozornil, co mně čeká, podal mi kluzkou rybu do dlaní a řekl: “zmáčkni“. Au! Vážně to funguje!

Joseph mi nastínil, jak probíhal – a se zvláštním povolením ještě probíhá – tradiční lov Pygmejů Bagyeli na slona. Náročný a nebezpečný lov na největší kořist v pralese se odehrával jen několikrát ročně vždy při zvláštních příležitostech, jako například svatba nebo pohřeb. Samotnému pronásledování slona předcházel noční obřad, kdy převtělený “Král lesa“, fantóm, dával lovcům požehnání k lovu. Skupina oštěpy vyzbrojených mužů vedená starým zkušeným lovcem se poté vydala do pralesa a snažila se vystopoval osamoceného jedince. Když se lovcům podařilo slona skolit, dorazila na místo téměř celá vesnice a několik dní se porcovalo, hodovalo a udilo veškeré maso. Pygmejská vesnice měla na měsíc nebo dva vystaráno a lovci mohli odpočívat. Příští lov na slona s oštěpy s povolením kamerunské vlády by se měl odehrát v roce 2013, snad, jak doufá Joseph a s ním celá vesnice.

Jedné noci jsem se také připojil ke skupině tří lovců vyzbrojených oštěpy na lov žabích monster druhu Conraua goliath. Největší žába světa žije v nevelkém areálu v jižním Kamerunu, severním Gabonu a v Rovníkové Guinei v rychle proudících potocích a řekách. Kvůli chutnému masu a až 3kilové hmotnosti je vyhledávaným terčem domorodých lovců. S čelovými svítilnami jsme vydali několik set metrů proti proudu divoké řeky a po cestě jsme narazili na 5 žab. Dvě největší byly příliš daleko na ostrůvcích v peřejích, ke dvěma středně velkým se lovcům podařilo přiblížit a zasáhnout je oštěpem a jedna byla ještě příliš malá, nato aby se lovila. Když jsme obcházeli jeden kluzký útes menší oklikou lesem, zahlédl první z lovců ve tmě dvě světýlka. Dikobraz! Potichoučku se vydal za zvířetem s připraveným oštěpem, ale dikobraz byl ve střehu a rozběhl se hustým podrostem pralesa pryč. Lovec zrychlil a přiměl hlodavce změnit směr. A pak ještě jednou! Nevím, jestli to bylo šťastnou náhodou nebo léty loveckých zkušeností, ale po několika sekundách se pronásledovaný dikobraz ocitnul přímo přede mnou a před druhým lovcem, který už čekal s napřaženou mačetou. Vyplašené zvíře o naší přítomnosti snad ani nevědělo a zastavilo se přímo před námi. Stačil jediný přesně mířený švih mačetou a vítaný přídavek k žabím stehýnkům (a nejen stehýnkům) pro zítřejší večeři byl na stole. Po několikáté jsem tak byl svědkem neuvěřitelných loveckých dovedností Pygmejů. Na zpáteční cestě k táboru jsme pozorovali v palmě podřimující kaloně, malého chameleona a krásného velkého bičovce (Amplypygi), kterého jsem si ponechal ještě do rána a pořídil pár fotek tohoto fascinujícího stvoření.



Desetikilometrový návrat zarostlou pěšinkou pralesem zpět do městečka Akom 2 nám zabral půlden a k polednímu jsem dorazil na nádvoří, odkud vyjíždějí bushtaxi a automobily směrem do civilizace. Koupil jsem si místo s jediném vozidle, které ten den vyjíždělo do města Ebolowa poblíž Yaoundé. Mělo se jet malým osobním autem, klasickou pětidveřovou Toyotou Carina. Bylo mi přiděleno místo na zadním sedadle uprostřed. Postupně se mi po pravici i levici začaly objevovat davy různých lidí - spolucestujících, kteří všemožně nasedali a zase vysedali, prostřídávali se, vrtěli a opět přesedali jinak … nastupování trvalo asi 15 minut a já stále nemohl pochopit proč. Řidič totiž nemohl přijít na způsob, jak do své pětimístné Toyoty naládovat dalších 13 lidí, kterým prodal lístky… plus jejich zavazadla! Když jsem pochopil, kolik se nás má do vozu nasoukat, zhnusení nad časovou prodlevou a zmatky při nasedání vystřídalo nadšení, že takhle jsem ještě nejel a že to bude nezapomenutelný zážitek. Taky že byl… Na zadní řadě sedadel nás sedělo sedm, čtyři chlapi na sedadle (podotýkám, že urostlí černoši Bantu, žádní gracilní Pygmejové!) a tři ženské se nám usadily na klínech. Ve předu byl řidič a další tři lidé plus nemluvně,… ale kam se poděl zbytek pasažérů…? Když se pár minut po rozjezdu začal ze zavazadly naládovaného kufru ozývat družný rozhovor několik lidí, já pochopil, že ostatní jedou nějak vzadu v zavazadlovém prostoru. Skutečně, zadní kapota byla celou dobu otevřená a dva chlápci seděli na okraji karoserie nad světly a třetí zády ve směru jízdy na dně kufru a podrážkami bot brousil hliněnou vozovku. Abych to tedy zrekapituloval, v našem autě bylo 15 lidí! Myslím si, že na takovém druhu cestování něco je. Přinejmenším to stmeluje kolektiv (doslova!) a je to ekologické. U nás je v autě vždy tak jeden dva lidé. Tady tak 7 až 15. Možná nabídnu toto úsporné know-how magistrátu města Ostrava, v zimních měsících by takové opatření mohlo významně přispět k řešení smogové situace. V ulicích by bylo pětkrát méně aut!

Yaoundé

V bizarně chaotickém Yaoundé jsem se zdržel jen dvě noci. Přijal jsem pozvání svého nového kamaráda a zavítal k němu na studenské koleje za město. Čistší a udržovanější než ty na naše (zdravím Palačák:) ). Během dvou dní v metropoli jsem si stačil vyřídit vízum do Gabonu, setkat se s poslancem parlamentu v jeho hotelovém apartmá a také zasvětit svého mladého hostitele do svého tajného plánu: vypátrat překupníky se slonovinou. Jméno i tvář mého spoluspiklence zůstanou pro jeho bezpečnost zatím utajeny, říkejme mu třeba Fanfán Tulipán. Fanfán bude během třičtvrtě roku, než se do Kamerunu na konci své cesty opět vrátím, zjišťovat, kde je možné získat sloní maso.

1. Opice, 2. Malá antilopka, 3. Velká antilopa, 4. Ryba, 5. Varan v mangové omáčce, Complements: Přílohy, Plaintain: Banány.

Jak vidno na fotografii, restaurace v Yaoundé nabízejí široký sortiment takzvaného „bushmeatu“, ale ilegální sloní maso nebývá ve výloze a na menu. To však neznamená, že není k dostání. Fanfán Tulipán je rodilý Kamerunec, mluví francouzsky i anglicky a k tomu několika domorodými jazyky. Když se ve vytipovaných restauracích začne shánět po sloním steaku „pro svého šéfa“, nebude budit velkou pozornost. Příležitostně párkrát ten steak opravdu koupí a postupně se začne nenápadně vyptávat. Po několika měsících známosti s prodejci masa nadhodí, že by jeho šéf měl zájem o slonovinu… a to už budu opět v Kamerunu i já a snad se nám podaří něco vypátrat. Ať ale nepředbíhám: zpět do současnosti! Jednoho rána mě Tulipán ddprovodil na odjezdiště minibusů směrem na východ do městečka Abong-Mbang. Tam končí asfalt a začíná moje cyklistické dobrodružství!

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  56. Taru works in the development sector on communications and is gradually succumbing to wanderlust as she finds the light-footed traveller in herThere’s no point searching for proof that Rajiv Gandhi was involved in Warren Anderson’s ‘escape’ from India on December 7, 1984. Whether it exists or not, it’s unlikely to be found except by luck. And you can’t determine good fortune. But, equally, you don’t need ‘proof’. Approach the matter through logical deduction and it becomes indisputable ― indeed, almost unquestionably so ― that he either knew or, at least, approved. All you have to do is ask a simple question: is it conceivable that the prime minister was not aware that Warren Anderson was spirited out of Bhopal in a government plane and sent to Delhi ― where he met the home minister and the President, if Arun Nehru is to be believed ― and certainly the then foreign secretary, M. K. Rasgotra, who has admitted as much to me, before departing for America on a commercial flight? After all, we’re not talking of an ordinary tourist but the principal accused in the world’s worst-ever industrial disaster killing over 2,600 and injuring tens of thousands more (as the tally was on that date). Rationally speaking, the answer has to be no. Rajiv Gandhi must have ― indeed, ought to have ― known. He was, after all, foreign minister as well as prime minister and, thus, Rasgotra’s boss. But let’s for argument’s sake assume the answer is ‘yes’. Unbelievable though it might be, he did not know. Two further questions now follow. First, what does this tell us about Rajiv Gandhi’s authority and control? To raise this is to answer it. There’s no need to say more. The second question is the clincher. What did Rajiv Gandhi do when he found out? If he did not agree with the decision to let Warren Anderson slip away he should have blown a fuse. The prime minister’s anger should have been frightening to behold. Heads should have rolled. Inquiries should have been ordered. But did that happen? No. So what does that tell us? Quite simply that either the prime minister knew or, at least, concurred with the decision and found nothing wrong with it. Now, flip the discussion and let’s ask was this really such a terrible thing to permit? Before you answer, consider the following. At the time Anderson was only charged under Section 304A (negligence) and not 304-II (culpable homicide). Second, he could not have been kept under arrest indefinitely. Third, whenever bail was granted there was a chance he’d leave and never return, despite solemn promises to the contrary. Fourth, the risk this would happen was not a ground for refusing bail. Fifth, a prolonged arrest without bail would have smacked of persecution and, worse, put off investors who, at the time (and it was a very different era), India sorely needed. Sixth, and most importantly, he was granted safe passage ― making the arrest a grave breach of promise. For all these reasons you can credibly argue that letting Anderson go was the sensible thing to do, and in India’s interest. Alas, the Congress doesn’t realise that.By refusing to recognise these obvious arguments the Party has tied itself into knots. In insisting that Rajiv Gandhi knew nothing of Anderson’s departure they’ve converted their icon into either a fool or a knave or both. And by failing to point out that Anderson had to be released and that it was, additionally, wise to do so, they’ve encouraged the impression it was a heinous thing to do.Will someone please protect Rajiv Gandhi from his heirs and successors?The views expressed by the author are personalThe police are in denial mode, but locals said rape, loot and killing of Uttarakhand disaster victims at Kedar Valley did happen. Victims too claimed to have been at the mercy of criminals of all hues.Locals said they helped the Ukhimath police arrest three men and recover R4lakh from them. But the police did not register any case against them, nor did they say where they were taken to. Most top police officers in Rudraprayag district remained incommunicado.Swatantra Verma, a victim from Raipur in Chhattisgarh, said he traded everything he had to prevent four persons from molested his daughter in the Jangalchatti area near Rambara.“They approached us on June 18 offering to take us to a safer location. Their attitude changed after it turned dark. No sooner did we reach Jangalchatti around 10pm than they pounced on my daughter,” he said. His wife Shalini said the experience was worse than the natural calamity they had escaped from.A similar incident happened with a group of pilgrims from Gujarat. They too had to hand over their belonging to criminals to save themselves.Gujarat principal secretary and disaster management commissioner PK Parmar said he didn’t receive any specific complaint of rape from Gujarat pilgrims but he had heard about women disrobed and harassed in Kedar Valley.There were also reports of miscreants chopping off body parts of corpses in front of the survivors. Police, however, said there were no criminal activities. “We haven’t received any complaint of loot or rape from anywhere. On the other hand, some 1,200 persons were screened at Rudrparyag area as a precautionary measure,” said RS Meena, IG (law and order).West Bengal transport minister Madan Mitra and state planning and development minister Rachhpal Singh alleged muleteers raped several pilgrims.Apple conspired with publishers to raise the price of e-books in a scheme costing consumers „hundreds of millions of dollars,“ a U.S. government lawyer said on Monday.A three-week trial got under way before a federal judge in New York in a case pitting the Justice Department against the popular iPad and iPhone maker that could shine a light on the secretive Silicon Valley giant’s business practices.“Apple told publishers that Apple – and only Apple – could get prices up in their industry,“ Lawrence Buterman, a lawyer at the Justice Department, said during opening arguments.The trial came more than a year after the Department sued Apple and five of the largest U.S. publishing houses, accusing them of working together illegally to increase e-book prices and undo Amazon.com Inc’s market control.Orin Snyder, an attorney for Apple, described the case as „bizarre.“ Apple acted in its own business interests in negotiating deals with publishers in the run up to the debut of its iPad in January 2010, he said.“What the government wants to do is reverse engineer a conspiracy from a market effect,“ Snyder said.Apple is going to trial alone after the five publishers agreed to eliminate prohibitions on wholesale discounts and to pay a collective $164 million to benefit consumers.The five publishers were Pearson Plc’s Penguin Group, News Corp’s HarperCollins Publishers Inc, CBS Corp’s Simon & Schuster Inc, Hachette Book Group Inc and MacMillan.The U.S. government is not seeking damages, but instead an order blocking Apple from engaging in similar conduct. However, if Apple is found liable, it could still face damages in a separate trial by 33 state attorneys general, who would seek civil penalties on behalf of consumers.’Tentative view’The non-jury trial is proceeding before U.S. District Judge Denise Cote, who gave a „tentative view“ at the last hearing before trial that she thought the Justice Department might win.“I believe that the government will be able to show at trial direct evidence that Apple knowingly participated in and facilitated a conspiracy to raise prices of e-books,“ Cote said on May 23.During opening arguments, Snyder expressed Apple’s „concern“ about the comment, adding later, „all we want is a fair trial.“ Cote retorted that she made her comments only after the Justice Department and Apple asked for her view, which was based on hundreds of documents submitted in advance of trial.“The deck is not stacked against Apple unless the evidence stacks against Apple,“ Cote said.The case has its origins in concerns by publishers that had emerged by 2009 about low prices for best-seller and new e-books sold by Amazon, which launched its Kindle e-reader in 2007.Amazon, which by that time sold up to 90 percent of all e-books, was buying e-books wholesale and then discounting them, selling new and best-selling books for $9.99, sometimes at a loss.Buterman, the government’s lawyer, said publishers became increasingly dissatisfied with those prices, which they considered too low. They tried a number of tactics, increasingly in parallel, to fight Amazon’s pricing model.Those tactics were unsuccessful, though, until Apple entered the market, he said.Apple acted as a facilitator for the publishers, enabling them to reach agreements that would move their industry to an agency model, in which publishers set the price and Apple took a fixed 30 percent cut, Buterman said.Buterman cited former Apple chief executive officer Steve Jobs, who died in 2011, telling his biographer that, „we told the publishers, ‚We’ll go to the agency model, where you set the price, and we get our 30 percent, and yes, the customer pays a little more, but that’s what you want anyway.’“Buterman said, „Overall, average prices of e-books went up, costing consumers millions of dollars.“‚Makes no sense’Apple’s Snyder called the government’s story a „fiction“ saying many of Job’s emails and statements the prosecution will show will be taken out of context.As for the agency model, Snyder said there was nothing wrong with it. He said both Amazon and Barnes & Noble Inc considered it before Apple did.“Agency is good and beneficial to consumers and markets,“ he said.Moreover, Snyder said data showed that in the wake of Apple’s entry into the market, average e-book prices fell instead of increasing. In court papers, Apple said prices fell from $7.97 to $7.34.The case is United States v. Apple Inc et al, U.S. District Court, Southern District of New York, No. 12-02826.For someone who had finally been embraced by his party and anointed its new poster boy, Finance Minister P Chidambaram seemed awfully truculent a day after the Union Budget. Perhaps, it was the economist in him who was worried about abandoning fiscal responsibility at the altar of hand-outs. Maybe, it was the lawyer in him who was tired of making out a case as to why he had decided on a Rs 60,000 crore farm loan waiver to be written off in just four months. Or maybe, the politician in him was aware that historically election budgets don’t always bring in votes. Or maybe, he was just fatigued of pesky journalists asking him where he was going to get the money to fund his sop machine. Finally, in a moment of candour, the Finance Minister admitted that he would rather not face election pressures every year when delivering a Budget, and that state and general elections should be held once every five years at the same time. Contrast the discomfort of Chidambaram with the euphoria that his Budget seems to have generated within the ruling alliance. The queues of party workers waiting to get a darshan at 10 Janpath have lengthened, with farmers from Haryana leading the way in genuflecting before the Congress leadership. Posters announcing Rahul Gandhi as the ‘kisan ka neta’ have sprung up. Tired of their leader being accused of spending too much time on the cricket field, Sharad Pawar’s NCP has also joined the chorus, with full page ads lavishing praise on the Agriculture Minister. In Parliament, there is a spring in the step of the treasury benches, almost as if the chill of a nuclear winter has now been magically transformed into a possible monsoon of contentment.To an extent, the celebratory air around the UPA leadership is justified. After facing a mauling in state elections in 2007 (the tally reads UPA 0, Opposition 5), the central government has been desperately looking for an issue that could spur a momentum shift. The original hope had been that an aggressive pro-reservation agenda would effect the change. But in an environment of competitive reservation politics, the Congress can hardly claim proprietorial rights on reservations. An Arjun Singh may have used it to build his identity, but the party was less inclined to follow suit. The Sachar Committee’s recommendations on minorities were seen as another attempt at recapturing a traditional Congress vote-bank. But here too, there has been some hesitancy in allowing the Opposition to revive the plank of minority appeasement. An 8 per cent-plus economic growth rate was a possible calling card, but the fear of a ‘India Shining’-like campaign boomeranging on the government was enough to spark off a defensive reaction.Enter the kisan: the traditional, ubiquitous symbol of the aam aadmi. Much like the Indian soldier, the farmer is seen as a conscience-keeper of a nation; agriculture is seen as an occupation that is part of India’s moral core, the true grit of its people. Such are the romantic notions that are still attached to land and farming that, even in multiplex India, a Do Bigha Zameen can continue to evoke a strong emotional connect. The ‘rural areas’ are a mantra to be chanted whenever a moral point needs to be made. The backward-forward reservation debate can be divisive, as can the majority-minority equation, or the ‘India Shining’ slogan. But who would dare question the right of the Indian farmer to demand more, especially when farmer suicides are no longer just statistical data, but a grim reminder of the failures of the State to build a more humane society? Any attempt to question a loan waiver to farmers can be politically disastrous in an agrarian society. Contrast ‘farmer-first’ politics with national security and terrorism — the BJP’s pet project — and it seems that the terms of political engagement are heavily weighed in favour of the UPA leadership. The fear of the terrorist is real, and there is growing evidence of the dangers of ‘home-grown’ terrorism, and of the rising clout of Naxal groups. But while the ‘soft on terror’ propaganda may appeal to the BJP’s core middle-class constituency, it does not resonate with the same vigour across the country. By contrast, farmers’ issues cut across geographical barriers, with the result that they offer a political party an opportunity to set the national agenda by appealing to the bulk of the rural populace.And yet, if the UPA believes it has found the mantra to electoral success, it could well be guilty of premature celebration. If farm loan waivers were enough to pile up the votes, then the likes of Devi Lal, Charan Singh and Deve Gowda would have had permanent access to power. Kisan politics can be a dangerous double-edged sword: while it can provide opportunity, it can also quickly become a source of despair. One of the biggest dangers that confronts political parties at election time is the principle of rising expectations, with failure to deliver resulting in what is now universally condemned as ‘anti-incumbency’. By promising to complete the entire loan waiver scheme by June 30, the government is setting itself up for the possibility of encouraging a wave of unrealistic expectations among farmers, and then finding itself trapped when it is unable to deliver on deadlines and demands. And what of those thousands of indebted farmers who will lose out because they remain outside the institutional credit system?To understand just what can go wrong, look no further than the UPA’s original Rs. 12,000 crore flagship programme: the National Rural Employment Guarantee (NREG) scheme. The first reality check done by the Comptroller and Auditor General shows that barely 3.2 per cent of the registered households could avail of the 100 days of employment in the first year of the programme. The average employment provided under the scheme was just 18 days as against the promised 100 days. Ironically, the data on financial assistance under the NREG Act (NREGA) showed that the performance of non-Congress ruled states in implementing the programme was better than of the Congress-ruled states. A recent television story exposed how even in the Gandhi family bastion of Amethi and Rae Bareli, the NREGA projects were caught in a web of bureaucracy and corruption. Will an even more extensive loan waiver scheme also become a victim of its own ambition? A morally acceptable idea if badly implemented can be a recipe for disaster.Moreover, the reality of contemporary electoral politics is such that it requires more than just the announcement of farmer-friendly schemes to translate intention into votes. While eyeing a 2008 election, the UPA needs to ask itself: does it have the organisational muscle to translate the Chidambaram Budget into an electoral victory? Can a Rahul Gandhi’s ‘Discovery of India’ yatra be enough to galvanise a dormant political organisation? Is there any evidence on the ground that the party is on the comeback trail in politically influential states like UP and Bihar? In the 2004 elections, in the 12 largest states of the country, the Congress won just 100 of the 440 seats on offer. Can the Congress claim with any conviction that there is at least one large state where it is guaranteed a sweeping victory in the polls? And are key allies like the DMK and the RJD confident of repeating their 2004 performance this time round?Perhaps, no one knows this uncertain political roulette better than the Finance Minister who comes from a state where the Congress organisation is decaying. With J Jayalalithaa threatening another potential comeback, Chidambaram should be aware that his future, and that of his party, could be determined by political forces that have little connection with the Budget. The momentum in Parliament may have shifted to the UPA after the kisan chemistry in the Budget. But in the dusty tracks of Sivaganga, it could well be alliance arithmetic, not budgetary chemistry, that will determine the fate of the next Lok Sabha.Editor-in-Chief, CNN-IBNGoing over the Coronation Bridge spanning the Teesta river, we crossed over from West Bengal to Sikkim. From here on, the sapphire blue Teesta became our companion. Originating in the icy confines of a glacial lake at 17,487 feet, Tso Lhamo, the Teesta gathers strength and volume as it streams down forming a natural divide between Darjeeling and Sikkim. Two incisions ran deep in the mountainside; the ravines of the Teesta and the road above it. Between them lay slopes of rain-drenched dense jungle. Miniscule flowers, bright spots on a green mat, dotted the slopes and often edged the road. Only some stubborn boulders remained grey-blue and bare. Up and up we wound, and then the road was running along the treetops, their trunks, hundreds of feet below, lost to view.

  57. „Simply mesmerising is the best two words to describe the feeling“, says Rohit Gupta from Delhi, who with family is standing at the water front overlooking the Opera House. Holidaying down under, they consider themselves extremely lucky to be present in the sea edged metropolis during its two-week annual lighting festival, officially known as Vivid Sydney, when awe-inspiring edifices like the Opera House turn dream-like under lights.

  58. Irča Huťaska napsal:

    Nějakou náhodou jsme narazila na tvoje stránky.
    Arture, takový mladý muž a tak silný už! Přeje ti taky na dálku hodně novým poznání, úspěchů…a jak se líká, sloni si budou hodně dlouho pamatovat, s jakou láskou vše pro ně děláš…Posílám pozdravy z Třince
    Irča Huťková

  59. Milan K napsal:

    Velmi poutavé čtení! Zážitky Ti nikdo neveme a jsme rádi, že je můžeme alespoň zprostředkovaně prožít také. Přejeme pevné zdraví a mnoho krásných zážitků. Jarka a Milan.

  60. Máma napsal:

    „Komu po léta přívětivě svítilo tropické slunce, komu se zjevilo kouzlo oněch dálav s jejich obyvateli, toho po celý život stravuje touha po pralese, který jej volá.
    Časem se mu zdá, jako by slyšel víření bubnů a taneční
    popěvky divochů, údery paliček, jimiž ženy stloukají banány, zurčení potůčků, u něhož si chladil zpocené čelo, nebo velkolepé bouření vodopádů.
    Tak se také vždycky vedlo mně po každém návratu z tropů, nechť jsem zažil sebevětší svízele a trpěl nedostatkem a opuštěností.
    Touha byla silnější než rozum.“
    Tyhle věty píše Pavel Šebesta (1887-1967) v knize „Mezi nejmenšími lidmi světa“.
    Arťo, myslím, že už dávno cítíš totéž a že tě Afrika chytla za srdce!
    Dál hodně štěstí na tvé cestě pralesem!
    Máma

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  61. Jiří foltýn napsal:

    Ahoj Arťasi,
    tomu říkám parádní cyklo švih. V Austráli se jezdí krokodýlí rejs (www.crocodile-trophy.com) a jeto hodně vychytaný bikový extrém. Doufám, že mapuješ a po návratu se do roka dočkáme pozvánky na africký-etapový-bikeový extrém „Elephant-trophy“.
    Snad se ti pak vrátí náklady na záchrannou misi. Šoupni do galerie více cyklo záběrů ať tvou stránku můžu doporučit i svým úchylným, bikerským kamarádům.
    Držím palce, přeji zdraví a píchej jen když se ti to bude hodit:-)

    Jurys

  62. Kubečka Jiří napsal:

    Jménem celé redakce regionální televize LTV PLUS Klimkovice zdravíme a těšíme se na natáčení dalších dílů pořadu Na cestách.Hodně štěstí,zdraví a sil do další práce.

    Jiří Kubečka

  63. Luboš B. napsal:

    Ahoj Arthure,
    zajímavé čtení, těším se na další příspěvky a hodně štěstí přeju.
    L.B.

    • ARTHUR napsal:

      Ahoj Luboši!

      Dlouho jsem o tobě neslyšel. Snad se máš dobře. Díky moc za přání, budu ho potřebovat! Měj se fajn, Arthur

  64. Vlasta Liberdová napsal:

    Ahoj Arthure,
    jsem ráda, že tě také mohu pozdravit. Vypadáš spokojeně, tak snad cesta zatím naplňuje tvá očekávání. Webové stránky jsou vydařené, fotky nádherné. Budu se zájmem sledovat a dále šířit.
    Tak se drž
    Vlasta od Honzy

  65. Iva Šamanová napsal:

    Čauec Arthure :*
    Je to BÁJEČNÁ stránka s krásným obsahem a čupr fotografiemi :)
    Okamžitě ji budu sdílet na FB a moc se těším na další povídání :)
    Hlavně dávej pozor nejen na slony, luskouny a ostatní zvířectvo, ale taky na sebe Kocoure.
    Ivuša ;)

  66. Zdeněk Laník napsal:

    Ahoj Arthure, Dáša už je v Douale, moje nervozita opadne až se nám ozve z Kedjom-keku. Držím ti palce a přeju hodně zdraví. Z.L.

  67. Jana Sniegonová napsal:

    Ahoj Arthure!
    Možná, že právě píšu první komentář na tvé čerstvě otevřené stránky. A moc se mi líbí! Ještě jsem nepřečetla všechno, právě začínám, ale už jsem ti musela napsat, že se na tebe moc těším!
    Máma
    PS: hodně štěstí, kluku náš!!!

  68. Folklorista napsal:

    Parádní dopravní prostředek. Opravdu mě láká si na něm zajezdit.

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